Also, my mechanic, who is a BMW certified technician, was on vacation. Not the best decision, but time, lack of tools, and the rules of my apartment complex forced me to get the car up and running ASAP. At this point I read about doing an oil pressure test, but given that I've lowered the oil pan already, and had a new oil pump with me, I decided to just go ahead and change the oil pump and cross my fingers. The oil that came out of the pump was as black as tar, and it felt thin. I usually get a lot of oil dripping while unscrewing the filter during regular oil changes. While at first I said the filter looked ok, I did notice that not a lot of oil came out of the filter. Per and dogdog suggestion, I then removed the oil filter to see if it was clogged. I cleaned and scrubbed the pan thoroughly using brake parts cleaner. I used a magnet to check if there were metal shavings on the pan. Im wondering if there are more of those pieces lodged inside of an oil gallery. The foil looking thing was most likely the seal used on the engine oil bottles. The orange plastic pieces most likely came from a broken oil dipstick tube that broke on me 4 years ago. However, on the bottom of the pan I found some orange plastic bits and an aluminum foil-like piece. To my surprise, it was clean and free of debris. Here is the breakdown (figuratively and literally ) of what happened:Īfter the car was parked with the blinking and beeping oil light, I've decided to take the oil pan off to see if the pick up tube was clogged. Now, long story short, I fixed the car by myself and have been driving it for 1000 miles. Due to some personal matters, I was not able to update this thread. First of all, thank you for all of your replies. A switch is a few bucks, and an engine isn't. Now, VW's probably 80% or more of the time, are lying. Or you drive it, and know you just lost the engine. People, flashing oil lights and buzzers come on for a REASON! To tell you to IMMEDIATYLY STOP DRIVING THE CAR! If your going down the highway and it happens, you turn the engine OFF, then try to get over. So at this point your unlikely getting off cheaply. Unfortunatly, your talking about a lack of correct tools and taking it to your mechanic. And you can put a lower mileage used engine into it for a few hundred bucks. You still don't know for sure the cause of the problem. Your head, at LEAST, has most likely suffered damage. Sure, you can throw a bunch of new parts on it, but the engine has 200k on it and has been run until it started cooking the oil. What else can prevent proper oil flow to the top end besides the oil pump?Ĭlick to expand.You drove it two miles AFTER the idiot light came on and your top end started rattling!?! And this was the second time the light came on? Your going to need an engine. I will still install a new oil pump, but now I'm worried that it may not solve the issue. So I removed the pump to see if it was seized, but I was able to rotate it by hand with just my fingers. I inspected the oil pick up tube screen and it was not clogged. On Saturday I drained the oil and dropped the oil pan. There was white smoke coming out of the oil filler cap! At this point I thought it was the oil pump, or a clogged oil pick up tube. I turned the car off and opened the hood. So I returned back home, which was around 2 miles away. But after 10 minutes of driving, the light started blinking again and I started to hear some rattling coming from the top end. So I let the car cool down for like an hour. The level was at 75%, meaning that it had enough oil. However, before pouring more oil I checked the level first. I thought it needed oil, so I bought a couple of quarts. Last Wednesday my car's oil light started blinking and beeping. I have a 2004 VW Golf 2.0 with 200k miles.
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